The essence of Oregon summer: visiting Crater
Lake
The Oregonian
Portland, Oregon
July 23, 2006
By Sara Perry
It's summer. It's Oregon.
What better time to explore our state and see some sights?
If I had one wish for all Oregonians, it would
be to see Crater Lake. My second wish would be that they spend a
night at the Crater Lake Lodge or at least enjoy a superb meal
in the dining room. Lucky for me, the lodge was the second
night's stop on a 10-day motorcycle trip my husband, Pete, and I
took through Southern and Central Oregon.
Traveling on a bike, you come face to face with
the brisk mountain air (OK, and a few bugs), you inhale the
aroma of the landscape and you feel every notch in the road. But
no matter the number of wheels it takes, the drive is
exhilarating and the lake and its lodge are worth the trip. Here
then, are a few of my favorite things that make the place a
destination not to be missed.
Getting there via the North Entrance of Crater
Lake National Park. A few miles from the entrance station the
road crosses the park's barren Pumice Desert, where the ash lies
50 feet deep. The flat terrain is stark and always surprises
you.
The first view of the lake from the
rim. There's a mirrorlike reflection on the lake's glassy
surface that tricks the eye in a spectacular and disquieting
way. Where does the water end and the land begin?
Its color. You have to see the blue to believe
it.
Crater Lake Lodge's rustic feel and intimate
size. From the approach, it looks like a grand old early-1900s
timbered lodge. Inside, it's small, intimate and friendly.
The front desk staff is friendly, super
helpful and knows when to keep quiet. Must be the mountain air.
(After all, a majority of the lodge's staff lives in a dorm to
the east of the lodge.) When I arrived to register, I was
head-to-toe in motorcycle paraphernalia and forgot our credit
card on the desk. The clerk discovered it, came to our room,
found me and was about to say, "Here's the credit card you left
behind," when she took one look at the finger across my mouth as
I silently mouthed "shh" and Pete as he turned around to see
what was going on. Instead, she quickly said, "I think you left
your gloves at the desk." Whew -- saved from a marital melee.
The dining room, on so many levels. The
setting couldn't be better. That goes for the wait staff --
outgoing college students and professional park staff -- and the
food. I still haven't figured out how the chef pulls it off way
out in the middle of nowhere. The choices and presentations are
top rate and the ingredients are fresh, flavorful and most
locally produced and organic. (Want to look at the menu?
www.craterlakelodges.com.) By the way, reservations are required
for dinner: 541-830-8700.
The camaraderie among guests. I think because
the lodge has only 71 guest rooms and we're something of a
captive audience, people feel free to visit, and talking comes
easily. After all, we're all on vacation. My favorite encounter
was with Portlander Tricia Marco and her 11-year-old
granddaughter, Sophia Van Dyke. We started talking in the dining
room over dinner and learned that besides Crater Lake, they were
off to Ashland to see a play. Marco, a former teacher, takes
each of her grandchildren on a special vacation to explore a
common interest. Where do we sign up?
Enjoying an Irish coffee and watching the sun
set over the caldera rim while bundled in a blanket and rocking
in a rocking chair on the lodge's patio. Need I say more?
Sara Perry: sara@saraperry.com; The Oregonian,
1320 S.W. Broadway, Portland, OR 97201
