Nature Notes From Crater Lake
Volume 12, October 1946
The Back Country of Crater Lake
By Dr. C. G. Ruhle, Park Naturalist
Crater Lake National Park is generally
considered with but one point of view, namely, that of seeing the lake.
This is generally accomplished by taking the Rim Drive which encircles
it. Some with a little more time at their disposal hike down the rim
trail from the Rim Campground, take a boat trip on the lake, and perhaps
venture a climb of Wizard Island or Garfield Peak. Few try anything
else. This is rather unfortunate, for the country surrounding the lake
abounds in interesting features: there are inviting park-like forests,
pumice flats, flower-bedecked meadows, grassy flats around cold springs,
solitary cones and craters, and interesting animal inhabitants with
which to become acquainted.
This back country has the advantage of
being close at hand; none of the trips which are outlined require more
than a day's time. There is no need of fretting with pack and pack
animals; no bother about planning and setting up a camp. As there are no
saddle horses in the park at present, the trips are for the hiker;
except for the gradual slopes away from the lake in all directions the
terrain in general is not rough, and there is small probability of
getting lost.
The park is traversed from north to
south by the Pacific Crest Trail System, being on the section between
Diamond Lake and Mount McLoughlin. It is also crisscrossed by a system
of primitive roads called motorways, which make excellent trails, but
are closed to general automobile traffic, since they can be maintained
for administrative purposes only. The hiker is not likely to met with a
single vehicle on these motorways, even though he spend a whole week in
hiking around. Three are no snakes, no poisonous plants, no savage wild
animals about which to worry. In the trips outlined there are not
dangerous climbs. The trip down Llao's Hallway is strenuous and should
not be undertaken by one who is physically handicapped.
Only one other warning is considered
timely here. Never venture up or down the crater wall or the steep walls
of the various canyons. The composing material is very loosely
consolidated offering few foot or hand-holds, and there is constant
danger from slide rock.
1. Around the Rim. From
the rim road there are several interesting trips. The Watchman,
which has a fire lookout at its summit, is a short climb of less than
half an hour by trail, starting on the north side from the parking area
by the road. A splendid view and a chance to learn something of the work
of a fire lookout are the reward. The ranger-naturalists conduct
scheduled walks to this objective. Firemaps, binoculars, the vantage
point of a lookout tower, and an enthusiastic green-clad dispenser of
information are valuable aids. Just north of the Watchman is Hillman
Peak, 8156, an interesting, easy climb. So, too, is the walk up the
grassy slopes to the summit of
Llao Rock. On the opposite side of the lake a trail leads from the
junction of the Cloudcap Spur to the summit of Mount Scott, 8938,
the highest point in the park, which is also surmounted by a fire
lookout. From it there is a magnificent view along the crest of the
Cascades from Mount Jefferson and the Three Sisters to Mount Shasta. To
the west, one gets a bird's eye view of Crater Lake and its relation to
the remnant slopes of old Mount Mazama. Beyond are the Calapooyas and
the Siskiyous. To the east are block fault mountain ranges and desert
pumice flats.
On the south side of Crater Lake is
Sun Notch, only a quarter of a mile above the big loop in the road.
The Notch was cut by a glacier existing on Mount Mazama before its
destruction. Its U-shaped form is characteristic of a glacially scoured
trough. The view from this place of vantage is well worth the few
minutes needed to make the trip. From the Notch it is easy and worth
while to climb along the edge of the rim to the summit of Dutton Ridge.
Another easy hike is to follow the old
road and the crest of Munson Ridge to Park Headquarters or all of the
way to Annie Springs, if desired. At places the crest is knife-edged,
and opens up surprising views. A return hike to the Rim can be made via
the trail that leads through the Castlecrest Gardens.
2. The Northwest Section of the
Park. Red Cone, 7372, is a very easy climb that can be
made from the north entrance road; the slopes are open and there is no
need of following any trail. From this elevation come most of the
volcanic bombs, big and small, which are found in the park. There is an
old crater on the summit which has been almost completely filled with
volcanic ejecta.
In the extreme northwest part of the
park on the boundary line are
Boundary Springs, the source of the Rogue River. This is an
enticing, flowery spot, which can be reached by following the Castle
Creek and Bald Crater motorways for seven miles from the north entrance
road at a point four miles below the rim drive. The springs can also be
reached by a much shorter trip from the Diamond Lake Highway to the
north.
3. The Northeast Section.
Timber Crater is readily reached by following a motorway from the
North Entrance Road. A most delightful hike can be made down the
Wineglass Motorway into stately, open yellow pine forests. Three miles
down, a spur leads to the right to Cascade Spring several miles away, at
which place there is a charming camp site.
4. The Southeast Section of the
Park. The principal objective here is Crater Peak, 7265.
It is reached by following Crater Peak motorway down Vidae Ridge. A
short trail leads from the motorway to the summit. A much longer trip,
but also worthwhile, is the trip down Munson Creek below Park
Headquarters, following the canyon past Godfrey Glen and the Colonnades
to the south entrance. This is a long trip of about 15 miles and
requires a whole day. However, a poor trail leads from Godfrey Glen to
the road, should one not care to traverse the whole distance.
5. Southwest Corner of the Park.
Union Peak, Snow Crater, and Llao's Hallway are perhaps the most
interesting features in the park aside from the lake. Union Peak,
6220, is readily reached by following the Union Peak loop motorway from
the Medford Highway, three-fourths mile above Annie Spring. This sharp
summit represents the neck of an old volcano that antedates Mount
Mazama. To the south of it is Red Blanket Creek, which touches the
lowest part of the park and consequently has trees, flowers, and animals
found nowhere else within the boundaries. All of this is part of the
Pacific Crest Trail. The motorway continues from Union Peak over Pumice
Flat, and rejoins the main highway system near Cold Spring Campground.
Snow Crater is a steep-walled
depression, no one knows how deep, that is filled with snow to a depth
of at least scores of feet, even when the days of the summer melting are
over. There is no trail to Snow Crater, but as the forests are open, it
is easily reached by following the ridge south of Arant Point for a
distance of some two miles. It is well to get specific directions from
the ranger-naturalists before starting.
Llao's Hallway is a spectacular
chasm with overhanging walls cut by a tiny creek in the soft fragmental
materials, to a depth of one hundred feet or more. It can readily be
entered by following a trail down White Horse Creek starting from the
old campground on the Medford Highway, four miles below Annie Spring.
The Hallway begins less than a quarter mile below the road; with ever
increasing depth and impressiveness it continues for about a mile. From
the junction with the main creek about a mile away, it is necessary to
retrace one's steps to the beginning. The course below that point is
through a deep and dangerous canyon, difficult to traverse, and with
little chance of one's climbing out for five miles or more. Because the
Hallway is filled with treacherous snow packs throughout most of the
year, it is wiser not to undertake this trip until August or September.
6. Fishing in the Back Country.
There is good opportunity to fish in the larger streams of the park but
the fish are small. They are usually taken with angle worms.
For all of the trips outlined, it is
wise to provide oneself with a topographic map of the park, which is
obtainable from the ranger-naturalists on the rim. It is well also to
get further information from these men before setting out on the course
of discovery.
New Formations At Oregon Caves
By Robert C. Zink, Ranger-Naturalist
The formations seen today on a trip
through Oregon Caves have required centuries to be built up. Most of the
water whose action formed the caves from the melting ice and snow of the
Ice Age, one million years ago. Since that time, the caves were eroded
and dissolved out of the mountain; stalactites and stalagmites slowly
grew from the evaporation of lime solution as it dripped in the caverns.
An upper opening was formed naturally 75 feet above the present Cave
Entrance, from which Cave Creek emerges from the mountain. This
increased the draft and consequently the rate of evaporation.
In 1930 an exit tunnel 550 feet long
was drilled to the upper end of the passages adjoining the Ghost
Chamber; 218 feet above the Entrance, it greatly increased draft through
the caves, so that it is very noticeable at the Entrance. This increase
already shows its effect. On August 10, I noticed a crack in the newly
cut marble at the inner end of the exit tunnel. Through this water
slowly trickles, and around it calcium carbonate has been deposited to a
thickness of 1/16 of an inch. Several stalactites 3/8 of an inch long
have been formed. These have been built up in these few years as a
result of the warm relatively dry air entering here from outside.
Beyond, however, the air is dispersed, so that its overall effect in the
caves would be difficult to determine.