
Construction of the Sinnott Memorial, 1930.
NPS photo. |
Photographs and documentary evidence
show that the site known as "Rim Village" has served as the park's main
visitor use area since the late nineteenth century. It might appear to
first time visitors as dominated by two parking lots located on opposite
ends of a roadway, and where randomly placed buildings lack any
overarching architectural theme. That impression may hold true until
visitors use the walkway defining the northern edge of Rim Village.
Bordered by a masonry wall on one side, the promenade was intended by
its designers to furnish a safety feature and consistent foreground from
which to behold the sublime "picture" of Crater Lake.
Just below the Kiser Studio (the
structure utilized as a 'visitor center' during summer) is an overlook
reached by walking down a short trail from the promenade. It is not
readily discernible at first, since the trail was planned to yield only
partial views of the lake and a structure sitting atop Victor Rock. Once
inside the Sinnott Memorial, however, visitors find that its parapet
provides a spectacular and unobstructed view of Crater Lake and
surrounding peaks. Even though it is a confined space with a sheer drop
of some 900 feet to the shoreline, this building combines two functions.
The first provides a venue for interpreting what transpired to produce a
lake of such magnificent beauty, while the other is aimed at enticing
visitors to explore the park.

Naturalist giving a talk on the Sinnott
Memorial parapet, 1957. NPS photo by Raymond K. Rundell.
|
The Sinnott Memorial (opened in 1931)
is designed to present Crater Lake in a naturalistic way. In this case,
such a structure should fit into the surroundings as a sign of human
subordination to the scale and grandeur of the scene. The designer
(landscape architect Merel Sager) went so far as to spend hours in a
rowboat on the lake, doing so in order to devise ways to make the
building virtually invisible against the inner caldera wall. It started
as a "rest" dedicated to its namesake, an Oregon congressman who chaired
the House Appropriations Committee prior to his death in 1928, but
quickly evolved into a more ambitious project. John C. Merriam,
conservationist and a leading advocate for interpreting the national
parks, envisioned a sheltered overlook whose porch or parapet might
facilitate better visitor orientation to the park story.

Merriam and Bryant at the rim in 1934. NPS
photo. |
As a former professor of paleontology,
Merriam recognized the educational value of a short talk about the
origins of Crater Lake, but in a spot where visitors could both see and
understand. A museum needed to be simple and not separate people from
the park they came to experience. Toward this end Merriam and several
other leading scientists had already established the precedent of
combining a parapet with museum at Yavapai Station in the Grand Canyon.
Unlike Yavapai, which is situated a mile east of where visitor services
are centered in Grand Canyon Village, the Sinnott Memorial is part of
Rim Village and therefore close to where most visitors congregate at one
time or another. The building's location away from the promenade and
roadway conversely provides isolation, a quality that reinforces visitor
acceptance of the Sinnott Memorial as both viewpoint and classroom.
As part of capitalizing on the
opportunity presented by this venue, Merriam orchestrated funding for
volcanologist Howel Williams to produce what is still considered to be a
classic work on the geology of Crater Lake National Park. With only
slight revisions since its first publication in 1941, this study has
served as the primary reference for naturalists giving talks in the
Sinnott Memorial.1
Consequently, it may not be surprising that Merriam first considered
utilizing the adjacent museum room to provide more in depth information
on the park's geological story. He even went to Europe in 1931 and found
film footage of volcanic eruptions, but changed his mind about a theme
by the time this exhibit area finally opened seven years later.
Merriam's approach to the museum
centered on the lake's beauty being so exceptional that it provided a
way to see the underlying unity in nature. Most images presented in the
museum were photographs, but he also donated several paintings such as
the one depicted on page 2 of this Nature Notes volume. Harold
Bryant, one of Merriam's proteges who was chief of research and
education in the National Park Service at that time, articulated the
rationale behind this effort:
The dispensing of
knowledge about park features was a goal, important and useful, but
it was hoped that the park visitor could be taught to think great
thoughts, could be sent home actually inspired. Based on what was
seen and heard a visitor could be aroused to contemplate the origin
and evaluation of the world we live in, the laws which control it
and the interrelations of its parts. If Crater Lake represents an
outstandingly beautiful landscape, how can the visitor be helped to
appreciate it?2
Although it was intended to play a key
role, aiding the appreciation of nature went well beyond the confines of
the Sinnott Memorial. One of the aims, for example, behind
reconstruction of the road around Crater Lake starting in 1931 involved
better presentation of what Merriam and others felt were the top points
of interest. Specially chosen pullouts or "stations" were designated
along the new "Rim Drive" to highlight geological and scenic focal
points seen from the road, with walls and other features such as
planting beds taking their cue from precedents established in Rim
Village. Merriam's convention of calling the Sinnott Memorial
"Observation Station No. 1" was adopted for a time since the overlook
and museum represented a logical starting place for visitors traveling a
circuit 33 miles in length.
Rim Drive continues to hold its
place among the nation's most notable scenic roads, one regularly rated
among the top ten by the American Automobile Association. It even served
as the showpiece for the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway (a route running
well beyond park boundaries) being named as one of the few All-American
Roads in 1998. The stations and substations designed as part of the Rim
Drive still exist, though several have since suffered unflattering
"improvements."3
Few of the pullouts are signed as such and none are presently linked
with the Sinnott Memorial in wayside exhibits or the park brochure.
Visitors can still hear regularly
scheduled talks during the summer season at the Sinnott Memorial. These
presentations emphasize geological and limnological aspects of the park
story, just as they always have. Non-personal interpretation in the
museum and for the parapet exhibits has taken several different courses
over the years, generally overlooking Merriam's observation that:
Just as all who see the
lake come under the spell of its beauty, so there are few for whom
the story of its coming to be does not take on increasing importance
as acquaintance grows. The sublimity power, and orderly operation
expressed in this process of creation develop in us a sense of
appreciation corresponding to influence of reactions produced by
other elements which we recognize as beauty and harmony.4

Reflection Point, a substation on the east Rim Drive.
NPS photo by Francis G. Lange.

Leaflet written by Merriam and distributed at
the Sinnott Memorial. |
The foregoing statement is worth
considering in light of the average visit consuming less than four
hours, as well as the high likelihood that a large number of these
visits will not be repeated. If there is little or no formal linkage
between the beauty which initially draws people to Crater Lake and
interpreting the origins of park features, then how can visitors ever
find them meaningful when they return home?
Whether Merriam was successful or not
with his approach to helping visitors appreciate nature can be debated,
especially since it hinged so much on his concept of unity. On one level
there is visual unity, of the kind where landscape architecture
harmonizes with an awe-inspiring spectacle such as Crater Lake. This
goal may lead to what is best about experiencing Rim Drive, but is
secondary to a unity best characterized as conviction. The latter does
not detach art from science, since each has a role in grasping larger
meanings in nature that are the stuff of inspiration. Merriam once
described the value of this kind of unity in an article about the Grand
Canyon:
Through such visualization
of nature seen as a whole we come often to the realization that,
even when enlarged by the lens of knowledge, the picture indicates
the presence of something beyond that vision does not fully reach.
So, in various other ways, artist and writer have presented the idea
that, in looking upon these great examples of unity in nature, what
we see may only be the shadowy expression of things greater still,
which neither eye nor mind has yet been able to define.5
Notes
1Williams, Crater Lake: The Story
of its Origin
(Berkeley: University of California Press, 1941). His full study is
The Geology of Crater Lake National Park (Washington, DC: Carnegie
Institution of Washington, 1942).
2Harold C. Bryant, "The Beginning of
Yosemite's Educational Program," Yosemite Nature Notes 39:7 (July
1960), p. 165.
3The greatest distinction between
stations and substations was that stations were visited as part of a
naturalist-led Rim Caravan, a service discontinued by the early 1950s.
4Merriam, "Crater Lake: A Study in
the Appreciation of Nature," The American Magazine of Art 26:8
(August 1933), p. 361.
5Merriam, "The Unity of Nature as
Illustrated by the Grand Canyon," Scientific Monthly 33
(September 1931), p. 234.
Steve Mark is a National
Park Service historian who serves Crater Lake National Park and Oregon
Caves National Monument.