Nature Notes From Crater Lake
Volume 7, No. 3, September 1934
The Lake
By Ernest G. Moll, Ranger-Naturalist
We sit on the rim looking at the lake
that lies a thousand feet below us. The morning is clear and windless
with a touch of autumn in the air. Blue the lake lies, blue and calm as
a great morning-glory fresh with the dews of night. And above it the
walls rise, towering in places to a height of two thousand feet above
the water, the western areas bathed in strong sunlight, the eastern
cliffs veiled in mystery-making shadows. The great stone breast of Llao
takes the morning: opposite, Cloudcap looms gloomily. On the tip of
Wizard Island the sunlight glows, and at its base the waters sparkle as
they break.
For awhile we sit without thought, the
mind making no inquiry, only our senses and emotions awake and active.
Trite as the phrase may be, this experience comes to us like a draught
of wine "cooled a long age in the deep-delved earth." At first we know
only the taste, the smooth matchless flavor, the sweet that has in it
little glinting edges of sharpness. Then little by little we think of
the rain and sunshine from whence this vintage came, and the slopes of
the hills with the green vines on them, and blue skies and summer and
the voices of harvesters. So it is as we stand above this lake. After
the first impressions of color and form, silence and far cool shadows -
after, shall we call it, this feast of the senses - there float up into
the mind questions that will not be still till we have made them welcome
and satisfied them with thought. For man - and it is not the least of
his attributes - would
know as well as see and feel. What, then, does it all mean, this
"silent sea", these majestic cliffs, this ceaseless play of light and
shadow?
In fancy we call to our side a young
brave of the Klamaths, bronze and lithe as a creature of the forest,
brought back to us from the dust that is the past. He glances down the
crater walls to the quiet water, then turns his back to the lake and
stands, arms folded across his chest gazing steadfastly out through the
clustered hemlocks, out and on to the wide valley that lies beyond the
mountains. Why does he bend his eyes away, why turn his back on this
which holds our vision captive?
Llao, he is thinking of, and Skell; the
one mighty and evil, the other mighty and good. Through his mind troop
in pageant the legends of his folk, the wonderful old story of the
Indian maiden and the great god Llao who loved her and desired to carry
her to his home in the burning mountain, down to his kingdom of darkness
and fire. He is thinking of Skell, the god of things above ground, who
loved the maiden also, and of how Llao, his passion thwarted, rushed
back in anger to his burning mountain, and Skell, his love disappointed
likewise, went away quietly with peace in his heart and kindness on his
lips. He is living again the long war of the gods that followed, when
Llao in his rage hurled up the yellow water-smoke and the flaming stones
that killed many men in the valley and filled the villages with wailing.
He is thinking of the four wise-men who went softly and bravely into the
horrible regions of Llao, giving themselves as sacrifices that peace
might come, went with their torches growing dimmer as they night closed
about them, went and never returned. And in time Skell killed Llao, and
Snaith put out with his rain and snow the last fires of the evil one,
and peace settled over the broken walls of the mountain.
So dreams our brave, his back to the
lake, his face to the valley, and in his dream we later sons of earth
find more than simple legend. This vision is truth as seen by the
imagination, an explanation, in fact, of the destruction of Mount Mazama
and the creation of the lake within its hollow and shattered walls. And
it is more than that. In the story of the strife between Llao and Skell
we have the old problem of good and evil, of love and hatred, of
gentleness and anger. The good, it is worth observing, triumphs, but in
that triumph there is no rejoicing. Our brave stands in solemn silence,
for the thing on which he has just looked is a tragic thing. Llao, with
all his faults, was mighty and magnificent, and the ruins of the
mountain that was his throne are majestic ruins.
And now, still searching for meaning,
still weighing the questions that have risen in our minds, we call to
our side a man of our own generation, a scientist. His words are not
those of the Klamath brave, yet the story which unfolds is not unlike
the earlier one. He, too, tells of water-smoke and burning rocks, and we
of ourselves can call up a vision of men in the valleys turning their
faces away from the horror among the hills. The strife he pictures is
less human, less personal, but clearly in the forces of creation and
destruction, forever locked in war, we can read the Indian's concept of
good and evil eternally in conflict. The scientist too pictures for us a
noble mountain and from his words and from the ruins at our feet we
piece together again the tragic story of its destruction.
The Klamath brave is gone, the words of
the scientist grow faint in our ears. Before us lies the lake, calm in
the vast shadow of time that glooms over it, majestic beyond the highest
dream of man, mysterious, beautiful with life, terrible with death. And
its meaning? That no man shall ever voice completely - only a few broken
phrases of it:
Time shuts the old earth-giants all
away
In cool far dungeons where his years lie deep,
But rarely does he grant, as here, to play
Smiles that light with loveliness their sleep.