Shadow Everest: Brian Smith – April 27, 2007

Shadow Everest: Brian Smith

Mail Tribune

Medford, Oregon
April 27, 2007
By Paul Fattig
Brian Smith’s chest is racked by coughing spasms. His cuts don’t heal in the thin air. He wakes each morning inside his tent with his sleeping bag covered with ice. And he is bone tired.

Consider his e-mail sent Tuesday about the night he spent at Camp II, elevation 21,200 feet:

“It was cold and the air thin,” he wrote. “Having a case of the Khumbu cough going did not allow for any deep rest as a deep, violent coughing fit was never far away, and always left me breathless and exhausted.”

Smith, 37, a 1988 graduate of South Medford High School and the son of Larry and Linda Smith of Jacksonville, is climbing Mount Everest in the pursuit of a lifelong dream. His trek began March 26, when he arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal.

The Mail Tribune will follow his Everest challenge by carrying portions of his e-mail journal as he climbs the world’s tallest peak. The complete text will be available online at

The plan is for Smith’s six-member team to summit late next month, conditions permitting.

“Having dreamed of being here since 1985 I remind myself each day to not get complacent but enjoy being here at all times,” he wrote on Thursday. “I constantly remind myself that I am walking across the exact same ground as Sir Edmund Hillary, Tenzing Norgay, Jim Whittaker and many other famous mountaineers who made history from the exact location I am writing from right now.”

Earlier this week he was temporarily back down at the 17,500-foot base camp, recuperating from the cough named after the treacherous Khumbu Icefall, a 2,500-foot climb to reach Camp 1 at nearly 20,000 feet.

That means the real estate investor had more than two vertical miles to climb before achieving his dream of standing on top of the 29,035-foot peak next month.

He knows full well that dreams can be crushed by weather, injury, illness or whatever else Everest throws at the climbers.

But the former triathlete is undaunted, although he misses his family back in Loveland, Colo., including wife Helen, daughter Chloe, 6, and son, Everest, 3.

“I find that I still feel emotional every time I gaze up at Mount Everest,” he wrote. “From base camp we cannot see the summit, but from just above Camp I the summit towers 9,000 feet directly over the top of us. The sight always leaves me emotional and choked up.

“The first time I climbed above Camp I, I was alone,” he added. “I spent several hours standing on the edge of a deep crevasse just gazing up at the highest point on the planet. I never grew tired of the sight and only left when the afternoon clouds and snow swallowed up the summit.”

In an interview with the Mail Tribune before beginning his trek to Everest, Smith talked about the call of high mountains.

“Mountain climbing gives you a chance to know yourself,” he explained. “You are totally alone in your thoughts. And, of course, the views are amazing.

“But you also thrive on the ability to handle hardship where others can’t or won’t go,” he added. “There are a lot of hardships with high altitude and winter climbing. There is a calculated risk.”

Chris Boskoff, owner of Seattle-based Mountain Madness, the firm Smith hired to lead him to the top of Everest, perished in an avalanche on Genyen Peak in southwest China last November. Boskoff was helping organize Smith’s climb.

Killed with her was longtime companion Charlie Fowler, who, like Boskoff, was a world-class climber. Fowler’s sister, Ginny Hicks, and mother, Christine Fowler, live in Jacksonville.

Before heading to Nepal, Smith toned up by traveling to Argentina earlier this year to climb Aconcagua, at 22,841 feet the highest peak in the Americas. He later climbed two nearly 20,000-foot peaks in Mexico.

But Everest has long been one of Smith’s climbing goals. In fact, when he was in the ninth grade in Medford, he often dashed over to the city library during lunch break for books on Mount Everest.

His love of hiking and climbing began as a youngster in Crater Lake National Park, where his father was a park ranger before becoming a schoolteacher.

During his senior year in high school, he made his first winter ascent of Rainier, the tallest mountain in the Cascade Range at 14,409 feet. He has made 33 ascents on Rainier, where he did a stint as a park ranger after high school. However, he noted he is a cautious climber, having turned back 24 times on Rainier because of deteriorating weather.

But Rainier is no Everest. Thus far, Smith estimates he has hiked more than 50 miles, including side trips up “small,” 17,000-foot peaks just to reach base camp on Everest.